what do i need to do to even the stain all over. whats going on & how to fix it? I think I goofed up big. What to do? I polyurethane all my cupboards, doors and woodwork and know they are are turning white in spots. Hi Danny Make certain the surface is thoroughly dry before applying Varathane Oil-Based Polyurethane. I didn’t want to apply any more stain to try & de-solve the existing stain – it was already dark enough. So I brought it in. I used mineral spirits and microfiber cloth to clear after the final grit. I wipe it off and within 8 to 10 hours it’s back. What causes this? Do I need to put the Polyurethane on for the protection? While shopping for water-based spar urethane, these two are the first products that come to mind. I came home and started scrubbing with the Clorox wipes — it worked!!! Thank you for any help you can offer! I sanded down the wood with course, 150 and 220 sandpaper. We did 3 coats of polyurethane and sanded between each one on a new wooden table but the last coat left a dull finish. The re-stain and wipe of a 4′ square took about 30 minutes. My house was built in 1890. I used a medium size paint brush, I stroked the table back and forth and I noticed on one side of the table it was darker in some areas and dry spots in other areas. Is there a way to save this project without a full strip? How soon can re-stain it with a sold stain???? Danny, I have done quite a bit of refinishing and have never had this happen before. Used mineral spirits to remove smudges, buy they are right back with the slightest touch. I ordered in long planks of cedar and cut them to size. It has brightened my paneling, however, when the light shines on it I see shiny spots. I am very new at this so I would love some directions. I have just finished refinished a coffee table and a dining room table. They floors were dry in minutes and tomorrow I will polish them with a water-based polish. Apply two to three more coats of varnish, following the same process between each coat. Sanded lightly, stained. If I sand them down a little can I put on more stain before I put on the new poly? Hi, John, I was very upset so after it had dried I sanded this wall so that all the puffed up finish was smoothe. Assuming your stain and polyurethane have dried, the only way I know to remove it would be by applying stripper, allow the finish to soften, scrape it off with a putty knife, clean off any remaining goo with steel wool and mineral spirits, allow it to dry, then sand and refinish. I have four boards that I did this to what can I do to fix it and not go into the stain. I just went out to the garage and checked and it is dry to the touch now, no stain residue comes off on my fingers, it is ready for finishing. You can use like paint and it will dry. I CAN’T START OVER BECAUSE IT WOULD BE SO TIME CONSUMING. I live in Seattle. Watch this video to find out how to stay cool and help your home and yard withstand the heat and severe weather of summer. I’m starting to see why everyone is painting this beautiful wood instead of refinishing it. I, too, made the mistake of putting the stain on too heavy and not wiping it off. I have no idea why that happened or what to do with the rest of the banister. HELP! It is very confusing. Keep in mind that although appearing dry, the underlying stain is still not cured. How can I fix it? Mike, I do not know if I should now use oil or water based poly. Poly not drying solution. If almost all the stain comes off when you wipe it, the surface probably wasn’t sanded enough. Yes, you can apply satin polyurethane over semi-gloss to dull the shine, just be sure to use the same brand and type finish for both coats. Please give me some advice. All rights reserved. That was after about 4 days. I was careful not to “flood” it, in fact I rubbed it in well, buffed as I went and did another buffing after approx 30 mins. I am working on building a drawer with fresh wood and like the original poster had to leave quickly before wiping excess stain off the drawer facing. Sad thing is, its the perfect color and a darker stain isn’t available – if it weren’t for being stick/ tacky/ shiny (and even streaky) I’d just put the finish on it. . We bought a house and found hardwood floor under all the carpets, so naturally we pulled up the carpet and stained it. Can you suggest a better product??? I used some baby wipes to clean and to my surprise i found the stain was coming off onto the wipes, would this tell me that it has only been stained more recently on an item which has been made to look old or would this stain come off if it had been stained lets say 80-90+ years which is how old i thought this item was, many thanks in advance. I have air leaks, I did put insulation batts and later blown in cellulose and still have air leaks. Thank goodness for this site — last night I was in a full-on panic. My husband wants to dillute a drying agent and brush it over the top but I am don’t want to do anything that will make it worse. Varathane Wood Stain: Varathane Wood Stain takes the waiting out of staining. And then I tried a brush but then it just stayed tacky! Thanks. I made a floorcloth and applied PU to it then waxed it after. Do you know how we can get rid of these spots without replacing the floor? It took 4 coats to get the dark colour I was looking for, I used ‘KONA’. My call to Bruce elicited the comments that it was my fault and I alone was responsible. The stain that truly penetrated the wood shall stay, the stain that dried on the surface will dissolve in the mineral spirits. is there something i can use that will fill the tiny holes where the finish will not stick? I find the new floor is scratching too easy. wet tack and dry completely and again mixed the poly slowly and tried using a brush and also tried using the paint pad on the stick both left little lumps all over. I allowed 12 hrs of drying time outside before moving it inside to my bedroom. The new panels are butting up to the older ones and we are using the sames oil based polyurethane on them. Thing I have to do a few coats on to get color out of? It can be difficult to correct, but you best approach is to strip the table again, then clean the surface thoroughly with multiple washes of lacquer thinner followed by naphtha or mineral spirits (these are highly flammable solvents that are also not good to breathe, so use them in a well ventilated area away from sparks or open flames). This removed the tackiness and the surface became smooth & dry. This looked a little better but it still has a rough looking finish underneath the glossy coat. This particular stain, unlike others I’ve used in the past, did not say to wipe off any excess stain. Another words the air inside needs to be exchanged with the air inside. Please use this form to contact Danny Lipford, America’s Home Expert, directly: https://www.todayshomeowner.com/radio/ask-questions/ Thank you for your help!! You could try wiping the table down with mineral spirits to remove any excess stain, then allow it to dry and apply several coats of a tinted polyurethane (such as Minwax PolyShades). Can I email you a photo of the floor? We sanded the floors, cleaned up the mess, then placed stain. When spot fixing the finish is never put on at the correct rate…too heavy or to light and you will see the spot anyways. Most of it had dried fine but a good portion on the outter rim is starting to curl up. Hi BL, Is Helmans polyurethane with UV protection a good choice for refinish product??? We put pine v-groove panels on part of our ceiling last year, and are now trying to finish this project. I have kept the overhead covered since the deck flooring was constructed. A lite sanding with a 240 grit sand paper padded with a 3M maroon pad will help break open the surface. Wipe the surface of the varnish lightly with a rag moistened with turpentine or mineral spirits. It does not state how long it takes to dry before you can apply a topcoat, like the gel stain chart (below). Take care, and good luck! How can I fix this. thank you. we were unable to find red oak lumber for this so we used regular plywood and finished it with 1/4 inch red oak plywood. It is immaculate but hard to keep clean looking. I realize I made the mistake of not wiping down after applying the stuff. I started in the back where no one would see. Thanks. He is not telling me what he did. and it is still sticky to touch.. any suggestions will be appreciated! I apply stain and shortly after I applied poly fast drying but it had been in garfge for awhile.I don’t think stain was dry now 18 hrs later cabinets are still sticky look nice but sticky what can i do. Furthermore, can you put varathane over stain? I applied Minwax Polyurethane clear semi gloss fast drying spray to a new table and chair set that I bought, its light oak, and it left white streaks on it. All went very well. Instead, I immediately took a slightly used rag (from the original staining process), and I rubbed down the sticky surface– until it once again felt slick and smooth. Now I’ll let it sit for another couple of days minimum to make sure. Why is this happening? I took the wipes and wiped off the excess stain. Half of the steps came out fine but the bottom half came out cloudy (milky finish). You can listen to the show on our website at https://todayshomeowner.com/homefront/2012/06/02/homefront-radio-show-for-june-2-2012/. AVAILABLE SIZES. p.s. please help me. When you apply lacquer, shellac or another quick-drying finish in humid conditions, the finish can turn milky because the moisture trapped in the finish didn't have a chance to evaporate before the finish hardened. Do I have to take all the old off? This innovative, oil-based formula provides deep, rich color and Varathane’s® renowned polyurethane finish—both in one easy step. One came out with a wonderful reddish tone and the other did not, more brown. I sanded in between used minwax poly gloss …well they turned out great, except couple of the doors have particules of dirt and some hair, but it’s already dried. The coat below is not dry including stains. Just stained over old stain on kitchen cabinets. This is a perfect choice currently available in the market at the cheapest price. I should have use satin. The drying time is usually a day or 12 hrs because I apply the stain in the evenings when the weather is not so hot outside or when I come home from work. I recently had my hard wood oak floor sanded and screened. product application is eliminated. How can i prevent it from dryng out? when my boss rang this guy he refused to come back and fix it. I have stripped my stairwell treads down to the bare wood,sanded very well and now have stained most of the treads. Use full strength. so I put more stain on and wiped it like they suggestetd above. Will the tackiness go away if we just allow it to dry longer? You can then apply your polyurethane. This is basically a dose of pure silicone, which makes the whole surface one big fisheye. Also used brush to apply each coat. I got a can of water based urethane, but I realize that the old can was oil based. There is no space between the boards. However the polyurethane is pealing and chiping. can you cover two coats of semi-gloss polyurethane with a satin polyurethane? I was sure to read and follow the directions very carefully. aFTER YEARS OF USE THE TOP IS MILKY LOOKING. Help! Marie. Its still sticky/ tacky / shiny. All rights reserved. TWO questions. Varathane® Premium Wood Stain penetrates up to twice as deep as competitive brands to reveal the beauty of natural wood grain. They refer to it as their premium stain. I need your help!! I sanded where they wer worn but not down to bare wood every where but all were sanded some. Please help. I am re-doing a 6 foot rail and newel post that separates my family room and kitchen, I purchased a fresh milled brazilian cherry newel post, rail and shoe rail. Thanks! So, since it was from the same can, I thought maybe a second coat would do it. I waited three days for drying and then applied a light coat of the clear satin polyurethane to the door and trim. i made a mistake on a door and want to remove it and leave it the way it was. the stain looks more like walnut than mahogany. What am I doing wrong? Its been months and the poly on many sheets is still sticky feeling. Can I do a quick fix with gel stain. Any thoughts are appreciated. I recently stainded a new wooden beadboard ceiling in my sunporch. If you try to finish over it with a brush, some of the stain will probably come off on the brush and give the surface an uneven look.
I am added 2 extra coats to get the darker color I like. I polyed my oak floors after staining them. Then I applied my first coat of polyurethane and everything seemed well. Polyurethane doesn't exhibit the same behavior -- not even the water-based type. Use adequate ventilation at all times. There was a lot of good stain remaining around the spot I made. Not all of the floor got this on it. The problem I had was I did NOT remove the stain from the kitchen table so the stain never soaked into the wood hence the table felt wet. I sanded and cleaned my kitchen cabinets, I applied stain and notice they have a white film on them. I am wondering if it was the weather i live in st. george and it is about 90 degrees outside. It was a lot of work. PU has been temp wise stored at around 50% and was applied at about the same can this cause the problem or is there a better answer. What can I do to fix that? hvlp stands for high volume low pressure on these spray guns i just stated is a gravity feed gun ,,meaning the cup is on top of the spray gun instead of bottom ,, but always use mask u can use a cheap primer gun will work just as good n get results u want..learned all this from my own mistakes pluss nearly 30 years in auto body repair n painting, Hello I built 3 tables out of oak and some hickory,I used minwax golden oak put on 2 thin coats and let it dry for three weeks in my house, I took one to the wood shop and wiped it down to make sure it was dust free, I put minwax high gloss pu on it, one thin coat, it developed a whitish mold looking affect and the poly just scrapes righ off, what can I do to keep the whitish looking mold from reoccuring on other peices. I applies 4 coats of varathan oil based stain. Applying the finish outside the recommended temperature and humidity range. Even slight temp changes spread and tightened the grain so radically that it would squeeze the oil-based stain up through the polyurethane semi-gloss finish, or even bubble poly layers away from the wood surface. Look forward to your views, I’ve had similar issues with this product and I wish I would have read all these issues before hand because I had a beautiful bench made with reclaimed barn wood now I have a bench that’ll make good fire wood because it looks like S@#T!……. Be sure to test Varathane One-Step Stain & Polyurethane to verify the desired color. If you continue to have problems, the only alternative might be to strip the cabinets and start all over again. Just remember to use a tack cloth afterwards to pick up any left over steel particles on the wood. You have entered an incorrect email address! However I do use this method sometimes depending on the nature of the wood and desired look, except I use a thinned, hand-rubbed poly for all coats (and I use a regular stain, not a gel stain). Similar to Debbie from June of 2010, our stain on oak doors looked perfect and they dried for a week before we started to finish them with Minwax quick-drying polyurethane. I have sanded my paneling and brushed on Minwax satin finish fast drying polyurethane. Anything will help! Thank you so much! WHAT CAN I DO TO GET THEM DRY? How can we correct this? Have we ruined the stairs:(. Could that be the problem and how do we correct it before reapplying poly on the oak floor? I am wondering why this happened? Then where the Semi Problem has come up I Put the Polyurethane Let Dry and Sanded and Put a Second Coat and I had a few spots with White Marks or Streaks on a few area’s so I sanded 220 just those area’s and it is drying, but I am still seeing those whit marks. I was doing some signs that have stain and acrylic together on one sign. The wood was unfinished. Is using mineral spirits the only option left? But it was a LOT of work. I’ve filled the knots with wood putty and sanded down the wood multiple times down to a 220 sanded finish. What to do? You have entered an incorrect email address! Or possibly the stain (you didn’t mention if you stained the floor) didn’t dry before you applied the poly. Don't expect it to darken a bit as it dries, it really doesn't. If applied too thickly, they won’t dry properly and will remain tacky to the touch. I’m staining my floors and staircase with your stain. It was in rough shape, so I removed all the old finish down to bare wood. Thank you in advance! We think we may have wiped off the stain component in the Polyshades with our paper towels. Varathane is a special oil-based wood stainer created by Rust-Oleum. Hi, we just moved into a house where they stained the hardwood floors with minwax. I read every question and have had the same problems many of these people have had guess what, no answers. I also noticed some of the stain came off on the tach cloths. The cabinets have a narrow oak frame with veneer beadboard inserts. I sanded, stained & varnished an old bathroom cupboard recently but noticed one drawer was still sticky days after the other parts were dry. I thank you and wish I had researched @ your site first. All other sites said to sand and use a thinner. bRANDT MAPLE DINING TABLE, BOUGHT IN 1963 HAD HEAVY POLYURATHANE FINISHED TOP. The table is now drying normally and not shiney wet look anymore. It may be impossible to dry out this top coat as by now it has lost it’s drying capabilities, and is really just a pool of semi-dried … I used a low luster acrylic polyurethane to protect a hutch I just recently painted. I’m planning on staining the table and then putting a hard matte/satin poly or varnish finish on the table.
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